Every look from Dior Men Autumn/Winter 2023 collection
Poetry enjoys something of a fashion moment at Dior’s Autumn/Winter 2023 show by Kim Jones.
Kim Jones has a track record of drawing from sophisticated cultural sources. An avid collector of rare books, the creative director took inspiration from T.S. Eliot’s The Waste Land, arguably the most pivotal poem of the whole 20th century, for his Dior Men Autumn/Winter 2023 collection, and brought in actors Robert Pattison and Gwendoline Christie to recite the five-section work as models walked in front of massive displays that flashed close-ups of their clothes and accessories.
“The cycle of a fashion house is about regeneration and rejuvenation, just like the cycle of fashion itself. There is always something of the past in the present and future and Dior is no different. In this collection, we wanted to look at the regeneration of the house after the death of Mr Dior, and its rejuvenation with Yves Saint Laurent — his chosen heir — drawing a parallel in literature, through imagery and themes in The Waste Land. It’s where an old world meets a new one, in change and in flux,” Jones explained in the show notes. The collection was straightforward with Jones blurring the line between masculine and feminine while demonstrating immaculate tailoring techniques that mix the formal and the informal.
It was dominated by a delicate palette consisting of grey, neutrals and blue, and airy, fluid forms. Soft-shouldered jackets and sweaters embellished with chains were standouts. The poem’s marine imagery was evident in designs such as extended fisherman smocks with volumes of vents, sou’wester caps, and a puffer with inflatable parts similar to a life jacket. There were also Aran knits, cardigans, trench coats, and tweed jackets that transported us back to the 1920s trends, alongside one-shoulder jumpers, kilts, skorts, tailored lapel-less jackets and Wellington boots. The effortless looks were accessorised with hats by Stephen Jones, and jewellery by Yoon Ahn and Matthew M. Williams.
Click through the gallery to see every look
Jones has been with Dior for five years, during which time he has continually reinvented and celebrated the Maison's precious legacy while demonstrating his enthusiasm for both original 20th-century literature, and modern streetwear and pop culture. For this outing, his homage to Christian Dior's first successor appeared like yet another significant occasion for the fashion powerhouse.
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