Executive Director Jenson Phang shares how SmartMaster balances traditional tailoring heritage with accessible retail, evolving trends, and a custom-first approach for modern men.

Founded in 1999 by master tailor Datuk Dickson Phang, SmartMaster Malaysia has spent over two decades redefining the country’s menswear landscape by seamlessly blending time-honoured tailoring heritage with scalable, modern retail. Built on a philosophy that fine clothing should serve as a true reflection of personal identity and confidence, the brand has grown into a nationwide mainstay by bridging the gap between bespoke craft and ready-to-wear accessibility. Through versatile fits, technical fabric innovations such as lightweight, breathable, and wrinkle-resistant bamboo textiles tailored for tropical climates, and expanding full spectrum wardrobe, SmartMaster continues to make refined formalwear attainable. Here, Executive Director Jenson Phang seeks on preserving the brand’s tailoring DNA, navigating evolving menswear trends, and building a versatile destination for the modern man.

SmartMaster has established a strong presence in the menswear landscape. Looking at the brand’s evolution, what core tailoring philosophy has remained non-negotiable even as consumer lifestyles and retail dynamics shift? It really comes down to two main pillars: uncompromising service and active listening. Because we specialise in tailors and professional attire, our service has to extend beyond just selling a suit. Many clients walk in not entirely sure what they want. It’s our job to provide professional guidance based on their specific build, skin tone, and body proportions.&nbsp;That leads directly to our second pillar: listening. Our philosophy is to create a style that makes the customer feel like the best version of himself. We listen carefully to their ideas regarding colours, cuts, and overall vision, and then we use our expertise to bring that vision to life. At the end of the day, custom tailoring is entirely personal. There are no rigid rules; our priority is satisfying the customer’s unique vision. There’s a common perception that to make volume sales, brands have to compromise on quality. What is your take on that? Quality covers everything from fabric selection to overall craftsmanship. High-end, fully bespoke tailoring can easily cost tens of thousands of dollars, but market position determines who you serve. SmartMaster occupies a accessible middle to upper-middle space. Our ready-to-wear collections are extremely accessible. A complete suit can cost under RM1,000. At the same time, we offer top-tier made-to-measure options using world-class fabrics like Holland &amp; Sherry for clients seeking high luxury. Our strength lies in this broad spectrum. Unlike ultra-niche designer labels that cater to a tiny fraction of the market, our positioning allows us to maintain stable, high-volume retail operations in accessible spaces like shopping malls without compromising on fundamental craftsmanship. What trends are currently dominating menswear, particularly within tailoring? We’re seeing two major shifts. The first ship is in the silhouettes. Cuts are shifting back toward regular, vintage-inspired fits reminiscent of the 1990s. The ultra-slim trends of recent years are loosening up into more relaxed, classic proportions. Next is the colour palette. For the past decade, dark neutrals, navy, charcoal, and black dominated. Recently, light shades and richer, European-inspired colours are taking off. To me, expressing personality through a wider colour spectrum is making menswear much more dynamic and fun.

What is your biggest personal pet peeve when it comes to how people wear suits? Ill-fitting garments, specifically pants. There’s an old mentality of buying a size up and just cinching it with a belt. That completely ruins the silhouette. The same goes for jackets that are two sizes too big; it looks sloppy rather than professional. If you’re taking the step to wear a suit, get the fit right so it works for you. I actually don't mind non-traditional styling! Styling is an expression of individual personality. If someone wants to experiment with bold colour pairings or unexpected combinations and they carry it with confidence, that’s great. Fashion should be expressive. However, basic fit fundamentals like shoulder structure and trouser length are non-negotiable if you want to present a sharp image. How do SmartMaster’s design language and storytelling connect with younger generations? By evolving our offerings to match contemporary tastes. Take our recent Neapolitan series launch, for example: we introduced a 10-colour range featuring bold and light shades, paired with a slightly relaxed, modern cut.&nbsp;For made-to-measure clients, we advise rather than dictate. Whether a younger client wants a sleek street-formal vibe or a traditional business suit, we provide the platform to build what they desire without forcing old-fashioned rules on them. Tailoring has built-in sustainability through durability and timeless style. How is SmartMaster expanding on responsible sourcing and waste reduction? Honesty is key here: we are working on it, but we still have room to grow. Currently, eco-friendly materials make up roughly 30% of our product line. The challenge lies in sourcing sustainable textiles that match our high standards for durability and finish at our target price point. Beyond fabrics, we’ve started implementing sustainable practices in our supply chain strategy and switching to recycled retail packaging. It’s an ongoing process, and we are committed to doing better.

What other areas of menswear is SmartMaster expanding into? We are significantly expanding our footwear line. Historically, shoes were a secondary category for us with a limited selection. Now, we're building a comprehensive footwear collection to complement our apparel line. This includes everything from formal dress shoes to casual styles and modern, chunky leather silhouettes inspired by street culture. Our goal is to provide a complete head-to-toe look, including tailored accessories like lapel pins, ties, and cufflinks, which have seen a surge in popularity as men style their outfits more creatively post-pandemic. What advice would you give to someone buying their very first custom suit? Trust your own intuition. People buying their first suit often defer entirely to external opinions or trends, ending up with something they don't feel genuine wearing. Let tailor professionals assist with technical details like button stance or lapel width, but the overarching vision like the colour, texture, and feel should reflect your personality. A suit should double your confidence the second you look in the mirror, not make you feel like you’re wearing a costume.

Where do you see the tailoring industry five years from now? Demand for custom tailoring will actually increase. Men are becoming far more conscious of fit and detail. They care about drop shoulders, exact jacket lengths, and unique fabric choices. Because off-the-rack brands rarely satisfy specific personal preferences, custom tailoring offers the individuality men are looking for. Custom fit is becoming less of a luxury and more of a staple for personal expression. Final question, if I'm going out on a date, what colour suit should I wear? I think a deep, neutral maroon or rich wine shade. It’s subtle enough not to be overwhelming, but far more intriguing than basic navy or black. It carries a romantic, sophisticated, and quietly confident energy that works exceptionally well for an evening setting.

SmartMaster is making tailoring cool again

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